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Hello Eric,

I hope I can answer all your questions.

1. No problems with the stock board. It works well. Arduino IDE uses AVRDude to burn the firmware, it's the same tool I included in the package. The hex uploader provided by Creality works well, unfortunately the settings they provided in the instructions video are wrong.

2. Use a ruler and measure the distances after you installed the probe, no need to be exact. +-1mm precision is more than enought.This exists only to prevent probing outside the bed.

3. Creality uses different sizes of hotends and nozzles in the same printer model (sourcing nightmare!). You need to make sure the height from the extended and retracted probe in comparison with the nozzle height are within the range indicated in the probe manual (there is a diagram for that). If the proble is too high you need to add some washers, if the probe is too low you need to use a longer nozzle or use another bracket. According to the feedback I got from the users, most of the brackets out there (non-creality) are higher than they should and washers are required.

4. You can use one credit card, 10 credit cards stacked, a book cover, your mobile phone or a ruler. The thickness of the tool does not matter. What is important in this step reducing the height difference between the lowest part of the bed and the highest part. If your bed has a difference higher than 2-4mm the autolevel will fail (it fails silently).

5. The best way to find the Z offset after the manual and the automatic bed level is print something... With 0 offset it will always start printing in the air, that's how it works. The Z offset setting should be something between -0.4mm and -1.6mm (always negative), lower this value on the go until the filament sticks to the bed. Once you saved this setting you will never need to do it again unless you replace your hotend or nozzle.

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